Monday, December 31, 2007

Peru - A Peek through Eternity (II)

Sillustani - Puno


Puno, also named the “Folkloric Capital of Peru”, has many things to offer to the avid tourist. One of its most famous sites is Sillustani, a pre- Incan burial ground built by the Aymara-speaking Collas - a population living in the Titicaca region before the Incas. The kings and nobles were buried in these towers, together with their riches.

The Sillustani towers named “Chullpas” are still an enigma for the historians, who have not yet figured entirely their construction style. Chullpas are regarded as the most perfect cylindrical constructions of ancient Peru, and in fact, such perfection can be found nowhere else in South America. The Collas believed in being reborn and careful preparations were made for life after death. The rebirth mythology is quite rich. The interior part of the tombs is the representation of a woman's uterus; and the corpses were buried as mummies in a foetal position. It was believed that this would recreate their birth.
A keen tourist with an attentive eye can also decipher lizards carved into the tomb stone. Because they regrow their tails, lizards were venerated as a symbol of never-ending life. Another unique detail, the tombs’ only openings face east, where it was believed the Sun was reborn by Mother Earth each day.

The engineering involved in the towers construction is more complex than anything the Incas have ever built. After Incas have conquered the Aymara cultures, the Chullpas were still preserved.

The Sillustani ruins co-exist in harmony with the present. The ways of old Inca lifestyle have not changed too much; I am about to find out during my voyage.


The Quechua speaking population living on the Altiplano, “Los Campesiños”, have kept the same housing style for hundreds of years: exterior walls made out of stones are protecting the small adobe brick houses.

Locals are very welcoming and they introduce you quickly to their routines.
Melissa is a 4 year old and she expressed her wish to show us her house. My first surprise: giant popcorn.

Animals, especially cattle, are essential for surviving. Every “campesiño” house (farmer) has at least a pair of bulls on top of the roof, or on the entrance archway. The farmers believe these animals have the power of looking after the house, protecting them from evil.


A local superstition; mandibulae of the sacrificed sheep are kept under the house, as this will bring prosperity over the owners. The kitchen is simple, reduced to the minimum. Only essential utensils are kept and the ceramic is similar to the old Inca style. Grains, potatoes, papas, corn - these are the main ingredients of a typical farmer’s diet.The houses are small and functional. Their adobe walls keep cool during the summer and warm during the winter. The crop is deposited in clay recipients.

The agriculture is still traditional in some remote areas and the tools used are quite primitive.


Traditional clothing is still preferred on the Altiplano. Women are weaving and sewing, proudly preserving their traditional patterns.

Infants and small children are most affected by the quick weather changes. Their young skin does not have the endurance of the parents and their cheeks get quickly burned by the wind and the sun. This endurance is built over the years and the best present a tourist can give a child is sun-screen; therefore Melissa gets my entire supply.

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Peru - A Peek through Eternity (I)


Titicaca Lake

I am again at one end of the world, contemplating the beginning of a great civilization. The old Inca legends place Lake Titicaca as the primordial centre of their culture. The two children of Sun God, Manco Capac and his sister consort Mama Ocllo, have emerged from the silver waters of Titicaca Lake and together they founded the Inca Empire. During and after the Spanish Conquest, the lake has been considered the secret hide-out of the Incas Empire gold, due to its spiritual significance. This has inspired many fortune-hunters to venture diving into the cool waters.
Amidst the adventurers, celebrities have tried their luck, too. Oceanographer & Scientist Jacques Yves Cousteau has been exploring the depths for 8 weeks, using mini- submarines. He found no gold, but something more precious: a unique 60 centimetre tri- colours frog that apparently never gets out to surface.



Floating Islands - Los Uros



The first thing one learns is a patriotic lesson. Peruvians are very proud of both their heritage, as well as their natural resources. So once you’ve learned the geography of Lake Titicaca, the Floating Islands are open for you to explore.


Around 3000 descendants of the old Uros are living nowadays. Only a few hundred choose to remain on the islands.There are around 42 floating islands on the lake, all man-made. These Islands consist of totora plant (reed) and soil layers. Basically, totora dense roots provide the support for the islands. An island lasts around 30 years. Julio, our guide, explains that Uros leave a hole in the middle of each islet and monitor the depth. When time comes, they start building a new islet and move on. The Uros use totora for almost everything in their daily life, especially in their diet and medicine. The white bottom is eaten for iodine, in order to prevent goitre. They also use the plant for tea and to wrap the body area where they experience pain.The Uros live in huts made of totora.
During the rainy season, the reed needs to be replaced, as it rots at a fast pace. Totora is also added continuously to the Island’s base. The main occupation of the islanders is fishing. The “native” fish species are killifish and catfish. Trout was artificially introduced in 1939.

The Uros use the totora plant to build their famous balsas. (Reed boats)

Titicaca means “Rock of the Puma” and the balsas are true to the legend. Each balsa is finished with a puma head.
The Norwegian explorer and ethnographer Thor Heyerdahl used these crafts as a model for his famous Kon -Tiki expedition, in which he sailed by raft 4,300 miles (7,000 km) from South America to the Tuamotu Islands.Lifestyle remains simple on the floating islands; however the Uros do not reject technology, as one would be tempted to imagine. The best present they have ever received, I am told, were the solar panels given by the ex - President Fujimori.

The islands have slowly become one of the most interesting destinations in Peru.
Los Uros open their houses to the tourists; explain their traditions and life style. Women are supplementing family’s income by selling handmade art crafts.
Men keep looking after the islands’ stability. When we arrived, they were starting the construction of a new island. Small children are schooled on the Islands, both in a Traditional and a Christian School. Older kids and students have to complete their education on the mainland.

Their toys reflect daily life as a mirror and it’s not very unusual to see little boys driving their father’s boat without supervision.


Taquile Island

The population on Taquile Island is a very small community and until 1950s they were relatively isolated from the mainland. Currently, around 1700 people live on the island.

Taquileños are famous world wide for their hand-woven textiles; the clothing articles made here are renowned to have the highest quality in Peru. The work of spinning and weaving is done mainly by the men and this tradition goes back to the ancient Inca, Pukara and Colla civilizations.

Community life and collective decision-making is the key for a peaceful living. The Taquileños society is based on collectivism and on the old Inca moral: “do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy”. As an outstanding proof of their honesty; the island does not have police or jail; any problems arising within the community are solved by leaders elected annually.

Taquile’s economy consists of fishing, terraced horticulture (mainly potato cultivation), and the revenue brought by the tourism industry.

Locals live modestly, in full harmony with their land. This 3-year old child had no footwear, while the rest of us (tourists) were bundled up and the cold rain was pouring down.

There are no cars or roads on Taquile. The only entrance to the island is a path of stone stairs, climbing up from the lake at a steep pace (approx 600 feet).

There are no horses or donkeys, not even llamas or alpacas; all loads are carried on the shoulders. Taquileños keep only a few cattle and sheep for their daily needs. It was interesting to note that there were no dogs on the island.


A young student is playing traditional Andean music for us. He is dressed with the traditional Taquileño costume.
The most characteristic apparels of Taquileño attire are the “chullo”, a knitted hat and the calendar waistband, which illustrates the annual cycles connected to ritual and agricultural activities.
The calendar waistband has been studied by many historians and researchers as it is a rich source of information which portrays valuable fragments of the oral tradition and of the community and its history.

The chullo, we come to find out, is far from being just a hat. It tells the community a man’s social status and rank. If the chullo has a white part on its bottom, the man is unmarried. After their wedding ceremony, men may choose to keep their initial chullo or change it for a “married man” version, which is plain red.
A community leader has a chullo with richer, brighter colours and earflaps.